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RAOC Gazette - page 231

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Full title RAOC Gazette
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Publication date 1980
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Early date 1980
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Transcription NORFOLK ISLAND
FROM COLONEL H. R. ALDEN RETD. (RESIDENT IN NEW ZEALAND)
WHERE on earth is that? It is one of the last tax havens in
the Pacific area six hundred and sixty miles from New Zealand,
nine hundred and eighty miles from Sydney and twelve thousand
five hundred miles from London.
A beautiful little Island just five miles long and three miles
wide with only ninety miles of road which can be covered
easily in one day. Norfolk Island was uninhabited when first
discovered by Captain James Cook in 1774 during his second
world voyage.
The Island is full of historical interest mainly connected
with the Bounty mutineers and their descendents from Pitcairn
Island four thousand two hundred miles away where Fletcher
Christian, Matthew Quintal, John Adams and six other mutineers
plus six Tahitian men and twelve Tahitian women landed in
1790 to establish a colony to escape from the long arm of
British law.
The early history of the first colony tells of murder and
bloodshed resulting in all the Tahitian men and seven of the
mutineers meeting violent ends. Over the years Pitcairn Island
was no longer able to support the growing population and in
1856 the colony moved to Norfolk Island. Prior to this move
the penal settlement on Norfolk Island was abolished. The
Pitcaimers were fortunate in taking over a going concern mainly
centred around Kingston the capital.
The ruins of the original barracks and other Government
buildings still in excellent condition are todays tourist attraction;
as is the old cemetery where many of the headstones bear the
names Christian, Adams, Quintal and other descendants of the
original Bounty mutineers.
Norfolk Island is where Major Charles Brockway and his
wife Vera settled on retirement from the Corps. After spend-
ing a great deal of time and effort restoring a beautiful old
colonial type bungalow on his property he was given only one
year in which to enjoy the fruits of his labour. The accom-
panying photograph shows his grave in the peaceful surroundings
of the old cemetery.
Today the bungalow and grounds are a picture, the
address is fascinating, Trade Winds, Norfolk Island, South
Pacific.
Mrs Vera Brockway has re-married and is now Mrs
Charles Hunt. Her husband, a retired officer from the Austra-
lian Civil Service Pensions Department, is affectionately known
on the Island as Charles II.
Readers may also be interested to know that Major Bob
Kenneth and his wife lone were on a coach tour in New
Zealand in February. But exchange of news was limited to half
an hour owing to their very tight itinerary. The Kenneths also
own land in Norfolk Island but do not intend to settle there.
Major Kenneth is with the Australian Civil Service in Canberra
and was able to put me in touch with Mrs 'Sheena Galbraith,
wife of the late Lieutenant Colonel Douglas Galbraith MC,
whose address The Editor has should anyone wish to have i t
It is indeed a very small world.
The Norfolk Island census of 1976 shojved one thousand
five hundred and ninety two persons living there of which six
hundred were at that time permanent residents. There are now
some nine hundred. There is a clear distinction between the
' Islanders' and the European settlers who are known as ' Main-
landers.' The former are easily recognised by their dark com-
plexions. a certain air of arrogance and their very beautiful
women. They speak a language of their own, a mixture of
West Country English and Tahitian, quite unintelligible to the
outside world. The Islanders are friendly and courteous but
owing to the tremendous increase in tourism in recent years, an
average of nineteen thousand annually, it is difficult to make
social contact unless one is a permanent resident.
Most businesses are owned by Australians, New Zealanders
and a few Englishmen. The Islanders are very much in the
minority as far as the tourist trade is concerned. They have
little aptitude for trade and prefer the simple life.
There is no taxation on the Island apart from a levy of
S10 annually in lieu of two days work on community pro-
jects. Certain imported goods are taxed to a small extent but
the usual range of luxury" items are ridiculously cheap com-
pared with New Zealand and indeed Australian prices. The
Island has no port; the monthly supply ship discharges on to
a fleet of small lighters from one of two jetties South West and
East of the Island depending on the weather. Main transporta-
tion to the Island is by Air New Zealand out of Auckland and
Quantas from Australia.
Our Colonel-in-Chief, The Queen, was the first monarch
to visit the Island in 1974 in the Royal Yacht Brittania accom-
panied by HRH Prince Philip, Princess Anne, Captain Mark
Phillips, the late Lord Louis Mountbatten and other members
of the Royal household. To commemorate this occasion the
Queen unveiled a plaque on Queen Elizabeth Lookout, over-
looking Kingston with Government House and Quality Row
immediately below. Quality Row contains the houses of top
Government officials, the Store, now All Saints Anglican
Church, the Officers Bath and last but not least the Bond
Store located in the original Guard Room where duty free wines
and spirits are sold today.
For students of tradition the Australian flag, flown at
Government House, is never lowered. The Australian Ad-
ministrative Services in Canberra rule that when the Australian
flag is flown at night it must be illuminated.
The rule of the road on the Island reminded the writer of
the Game Parks in Africa where road signs show that animals
have right of way. On the Island there are innumerable cows
which have the right of way. The whole Island is Common
land with cattle roaming at will even down the one main
street, reminiscent of Benares and Calcutta. Where cows are
sacred in India on Norfolk Island they are sometimes shot on
the hoof, the tagged ear taken to the Police Station for identifica-
tion and the owner sent a cheque for the value of the beast
The Island is a refuge for a variety of people—evocative of
some of the stories of Somerset Maugham. There are four
millionaires and many others using the Island as a tax haven;
they have very little interest in local affairs. Others are run-
ning away from either drink, drugs or women. Inevitably there
are the remittance men.
The Island is a gourmet's Paradise with a great variety of
exotic foods. Dining places are numerous, varied and different
in atmosphere, the cuisine and presentation always superb; the
prices cheap. For example, smorgasbord lunch at the South
Pacific, one of the two main hotels, is SA2. The mind boggles
at what a similar meal would cost at say Simpsons in the
Strand or the Old Bull '& Bush in Bath.
Norfolk Island has become Mecca for many New
Zealanders. In these days of inflation and escalating prices it
is still cheaper, Customs notwithstanding to holiday there rather
than the South Island pn their own doorstep. One can only
hope that Norfolk Island will remain one of the unspoiled
places in the South Pacific.
— 182 —
Book number R0404