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RAOC Gazette - page 9

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Transcription An East European Experience
By Jacqueline Davies
ON our return journey by car to England, after a two year loan
appointment in Iran, we wanted to travel back via Bulgaria,
Romania, Hungary and Czechoslovakia in order to see for our-
selves how the Communist half lived. People who inquired of
our travel plans said that we would never be given permission
to drive through those countries. We applied for clearance in
March and to our amazement and delight, three weeks before
our anticipated departure date the necessary documents arrived.
There then began a frantic round of Embassy visiting to get
visas and the local currency. The staff at the various con-
sulates could not have been kinder or more helpful. At last
after many farewell parties we said a very sad farewell to our
friends and Tehran.
Our first evening was spent in Tabriz with friends, I
managed to find time to visit a silver shop and bought a locally
worked silver rice server. At the Irano—Turkish border early
the next morning chaos (as usual) reigned. A local doctor in-
sisting I be vaccinated against smallpox , . . . unfortunately, he
had run out of the necessary form, did I by any chance happen
to have one! It all proved too difficult so it was forgotten.
We had an uneventful journey through Turkey, despite the
fact Turkish elections were to be held at the end of the week,
and trouble was expected. Since our last journey through
Turkey their roads had improved enormously with many new
stretches, one section which passes within two kilometres of the
USSR: we could see the Watch Towers and the ubiquitous
fence which extended in both directions as far as one could see.
We found on reaching Istanbul that a small vibrating
noise which had been with us since Tehran, had grown to worry-
ing proportions. Having put the tent up and had a good
nights sleep, David was up at a very early hour to find a Volvo
garage; a small cross link universal joint needed replacing cost-
ing us £30, this was the only repair needed on the whole trip.
We spent the next four days being tourists; we visited the
Blue Mosque, the impressive and massive Saint Sophias Mosque
begun around 326 AD: The magnificent Topkapi Palace over-
looking the Golden Horn, with its large old trees, antique clock
collection and famous Harem. We bought leather sandals,
Turkish Delight and endless postcards. The covered Bazaar is
enormous, with many gold and fur shops, I was very tempted
with one Turkish carpet but David asked me to remember the
Persian ones I had bought, and eventually (and unfortunately)
common sense prevailed,
Next stop was Greece where we spent six idyllic days
shopping, and drinking ouzo, sunbathing, and drinking ouzo, in
fact it took a great deal of willpower and ouzo to drag our-
selves back into Turkey to cross the Bulgarian border at Edirne,
We were both a little apprehensive about the whole ad-
venture as the last few kilometres went by, we had heard so
many dire warnings, perhaps they would follow us etc, etc. We
had been told to carry no uniforms with us, so there was nothing
immediate or obvious to say we were in the Army. We changed
the obligatory S10 a day each, had the car's details entered in
our passports and were waved on,
Superficially all looked reasonable, we had expected to see
downtrodden peasantry, and although they wore clothes whose
style belonged to the early fifties and in drab colours, they
weren't actually looking over their shoulders for big brother
all the time.
We stayed at a campsite called Sl&ncev Brjag which means
Sunny Beach. It is one hundred and ninety miles of clean sands
and cheap hotels which cater for the workers holiday needs.
As someone explained it's a holiday factory. Despite its promis-
ing name on "our second evening there, hailstones of a truly
amazing size bombarded our tent and for a short while I felt
our holiday could well have ended there.
We saw few private cars or bicycles, most people travel by
state run trains and buses. People seemed to be spending their
money at secondhand clothes stalls, on food or alcohol; we
saw many drunks during our holiday. Food seemed in short
supply and a determined effort to track down the basic of foods
was necessary if we were to eat. We saw no fresh meat
shops at all, and long queues outside kiosks selling vegetables.
Our one meal out consisted of two mackerel each: no butter,
potatoes or vegetables other than a chopped up cucumber,
but as much wine as one could consume. No coffee or dessert
was available. Surprisingly, fresh strawberries were available
and at around 45p a pound seemed cheap, but the local
people seemed unable to afford them.
The towns and villages were full of billboards covered with
political slogans and hammer and sickles: one village we drove
through was being bombarded with propaganda from loud-
speakers high on rooftops. What a dreadful invasion of
privacy with no opportunity to switch off or get away from
it. Bulgaria is totally agricultural with many but not all farms
being communes, houses are old and most need a coat of
paint, gardens overflow with vegetables and vines. Side roads
through a village are mostly gravel and dirt and potholed.
The general impression was a depressing, dreary country,
people seemed wary of us, possibly because Bulgaria has
few foreign tourists yet, and that western capitalists have been
portrayed as villians of the peace!! At the border with Romania
we reached an impasse with the authorities over £20 worth
of Bulgaria leva; there was nothing to spend it on and we
couldn't export it, eventually we left the money and our
address and one day hope to see it again I!
Romania proved much friendlier; enormous grain growing
fields many miles in length, and acres upon acres of vines. Our
first evening we spent at Mamia on the Black Sea Coast, again
quite ghastly. I began to feel like an exhibit at a zoo, with
people interested in car, tent and us; next morning we moved
on as soon as possible. Bucharest the capital had suffered badly
in the older sectors from the earthquake earlier in the year: it
is an elegant city with large green parks, beautiful houses, four
and five lane highways little traffic and clean buildings; any-
one knowing Tehran will realise it is the antithesis of all we
had been used to: in fact David was so moved by it all he had
to take a photograph of almost empty traffic lanes. Some
American fellow travellers recommended a local folk concert
of Romanian songs and dances, which proved both colourful
and entertaining, afterwards we went for a meal at a well
known Inn called the Hancul Manuc Inn, and depending on
what you had in your wallet determined on what level of
balcony you ate. The balconies faced each other making a
square, and fellow diners and drinkers provided the entertain-
ment. During the morning we had eaten our first cream cake
and drunk our first coffee for days in the Intercontinental: it is
the only place to escape the furtive beings who sidle up to you
and want to buy any hard currency you have. Anyone not a
foreign tourist or a party member cannot get within fifty yards
of the entrance.
A few days later we set off for Brasev in Transylvania
which in turn reminded us of Vlad Dracula. We did try to
visit his castles at Bran and Snagev with little success. On
to the Ploesti oilfields which extend for many miles and which
were a bone of contention in the last war.
Near Brasov is Poiana Brasov in the Carpathian Moun-
tains and is Romania's ski resort area: we are both keen
skiers having enjoyed a four month ski season in Tehran, and
Poiana Brasov had been sold to us as both cheap and with
excellent facilities; it's possibly cheap but the facilities have
still to be developed before it could complete successfully with
Europe. Had we had more time I would have liked to have
gone to Moldavia to see the famous externally painted
monasteries of Neamt, Agapia and VSratec.
In Hungary we hoped for something different and were not
disappointed. Budapest is a beautiful city on both sides of the
Danube: the shops have many consumer goods and clothes
and good food is easily available. I bought my first souvenir,
a piece of Hungarian Herend porcelain for which I had to pay
in dollars. We took a coach tour to visit the main tourist
attractions: the Monument to Dead Soviet Soldiers. St Matthias
Church, Fishermans Bastion, the lovely old Town Hall and
Tower. The most impressive building was the old Buda
Palace which has in parts been modernised to create a fantastic
National Gallery of marble and glass, and which overlooks the
river and the Pest side of Budapest. We phoned England on
one of our evenings there to see if our son Simon had been
accepted by Cranleigh Public School and were thrilled to find
he had, so we celebrated at a very famous old restaurant called
238
Book number R0246a